How to patch a shingle roof replace

System Requirements: Windows 8, Windows 7, Windows 8.1


Start > High winds can lift up asphalt shingle tabs and break them off. When a windstorm damages a few shingles, they can be replaced easily if suitable  replacement shingles can be found. It's not even necessary to replace the entire 3-tab shingle if only one tab is broken. In this article I describe how to remove one-third of a 3-tab shingle and replace it with 1/3 of another shingle. Removing and replacing an entire shingle follows the same procedure. there's just more nails to remove. [ See Tools and Materials] [ Add your comments below the article] Important: Read the Tips On Not Dying at the end of this article. Broken Shingle Tab: This roof had about a dozen broken shingle tabs. Rain or melting snow can penetrate around the exposed nail heads. Nails To Remove: The blue lines indicate the edges of the shingle with the broken tab. The blue X's are the nails that fasten the damaged shingles to the roof. The red X's are the nails in the row of shingles above. these nails usually need to be removed because they penetrate the top edge of the shingle being replaced. In my case, I only needed to remove the left and middle nails. Separating Shingle Tabs: The first step was to carefully lift the shingle tab above, to separate it from the shingle I need to remove. The tabs stick to the tar strip on the shingle below. Separating Shingle Tabs: Then, I lifted the tab two rows above. Why? Because this shingle covers the shingle above my target, and that neighboring shingle's nails will penetrate the very top of the shingle I am replacing. Removing Shingle Nails: I used my flat pry bar to prop up the shingle tabs TWO rows above the damaged shingle. Then I positioned the small bent pry bar at the edge of the nail head, and gave it a tap with a hammer to drive the prybar under the nail head. Removing Shingle Nails: The little prybar dug into the shingle a little as it reached.
Photo: shutterstock.com DOWN TO BRASS TACKS Early detection of roof leaks is the key to avoiding serious roof damage, but finding the problem is sometimes the most difficult aspect of roof repair. Certainly, it's the first step and to prevent costly problems down the road, it's a task you've got to take seriously. At the very least, if you want the leak to go away, you must determine its underlying cause. Check for any missing, curled, or cracked shingles (leaks also occur where shingles butt together). Additionally, inspect for any failures in the roof flashing, caulking, or the end caps (those tent-shaped shingles that cover roof peaks). Asphalt shingles are the most popular roofing material for homes today, accounting for nearly 70% of domestic roofing installations, according to Tom Bollnow, senior director of technical services at the National Roofing Contractors Association ( NRCA). And for good reason—asphalt shingles are lightweight, durable, attractive, and priced well compared to competitive roofing materials. While most asphalt shingles are manufactured with the latest advancements in weather- and wind-resistance, fire safety, and long-lasting performance, even the best of them can develop problems over time. The good news is that an asphalt shingle roof is probably the easiest type to repair, since curled shingles can be flattened and re-secured, and old shingles can simply be replaced. Plus, asphalt shingles make the warning signs of a serious roofing problem readily perceptible. Related: Should You Replace or Repair Your Roof? If you discover that your roof is leaking—most likely evident by water stains on the ceiling—note the leak’s location.  Look to see if there are any curled, cracked, or missing shingles.  Leaks can occur at any point where shingles butt, or where caulking and flashing have been compromised.  End caps, the tent-shaped shingles that.
Remove those ugly damaged shingles and stop potential roof leaks by following this simple three-step shingle replacement process. By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine Similar Projects Replace damaged shingles Photo 1: Pry gently to break shingle free Gently tap a flat bar under the shingles to break the seal-down strips free. Don't force it—shingles rip easily. Strip out photo of single shingle showing nail locations Find all eight nails in these typical locations. Photo 2: Pry up shingle and nail together Wedge the notch of the pry bar under the shingle at the nail head, then pry up both shingle and nail. Photo 3: Nail on the new shingle Nail down the new shingle, propping the tabs above as you nail to avoid breaking them. A broken shingle is both ugly and a leak waiting to happen. But as long as you can find matching shingles (and you're not afraid of heights the repair is straightforward. Pick a day when the weather is moderate to do the repair—too cold and the shingles can crack; too warm and the shingle sealants are tough to break. Loosen the tabs under the broken shingle and the next two courses above it ( Photo 1). Shingles are fastened with eight nails each—four at the center just above the tab slots and four through the shingle above it—and you have to lift up all the shingles that cover those nails to remove them. After all the tabs are loose, push the flat bar up under the damaged shingle to each nail, centering the nail in the flat bar notch ( Photo 2). To avoid ripping shingles, gently work the pry bar under both tabs as you push it up. Pop out the nails by prying underneath the shingle instead of trying to dig the nail head out from the top of the shingle; that will wreck the shingle. Then push the shingle down from the nail head and pull out the nail. After removing the center row of nails on the damaged shingle, lift the undamaged.